Texas Hill Country Roadtrip - December '23
The Approach
Texas Hill Country! This gem in the heart of Texas is little know outside the state... until now!
This trip has been a long time coming. Ever since I moved to Austin, I've wanted to explore this area.
Now, this was a solo trip for me. I'm a guy. So this counts as a guys trip, right?
First, a geography lesson. Texas is gigantic. It is roughly divided into 7 eco-regions all with different climates, animals, plants, terrain, you name it.
The Edwards Plateau aka Hill Country is one these diverse areas. There's no formal boundary of Hill Country, but it's generally made of 25 counties that sit center-south-ish in the state. For the love... here's a map.
Hill Country is known for its rolling hills and iconic rivers and creeks. It's this part of Texas that many don't see in the movies or "Dallas," the hit soap opera from the 70's, 80's, and 90's.
And We're Off
Getting here for me was easy. I wanted to tackle a few state parks, and the drive from Austin was 3 hours. As soon as I left the last Austin suburb, I was in another world. No highways, malls, skyscrapers. Hell, two hours into the drive, I lost cell service for the rest of the trip like it was 1989.
Stellar view despite the rain
The best part of a road trip? Pit Stops!
Pit Stop Uno - Johnson City
I'd been here before, so this was a familiar haunt for me. I headed directly to Johnson City Coffee.
This is the perfect stop: caffeine + tacos. Cast Iron Punk was solid. I went with the tried and true potato and egg taco. They nailed it with a huge portion, and a little kick of extra flavor I can't place. Definitely worth stopping at to stretch your legs and refill.
Pit Stop Dos - Kerrville
I've see Kerrville on the map and always wondered about this "Captial of Texas Hill Country." This is the trip I scratched that itch.
I started at The Museum of Western Art. I am not the biggest art fan, but I do like Western art. For me it's a reminder of a time that really wasn't so long ago if you think about it. The art is straightforward to me. It tells a story. There's little interpretation.
Before you even enter the building, you're treated to this piece by Fritz White.
Entering into the building, I was immediately greeted by a lovely volunteer with the warm voice of a grandmother. It's a $7 entry. Vets and first responders are free.
Then a man named "Bison Bill" gave me the five minute rundown.
I spent a solid hour here browsing the art, disconnecting from tech, and enjoying the silence. There are too many pics to show, but here are my favorite three.
Rodรจo, Randy Steffen
Duel on the Prairie, Robert Scriver
It was lunchtime. I decided to head to downtown Kerrville, and I came across this legendary cafe. This place is all comfort food - burgers, chicken fried steak, breakfast food - all the standard diner options.
I went with the burger. Solid. It's a burger, no pics, guys. C'mon. But I will food post this homemade banana cream pudding! But the best part of this stop was the staff and their small town hospitality.
An hour later, I arrived at my Airbnb in Leakey, TX at the Evensong house.
Let me tell you, fellas, this was an experience. Pat and Ken greeted me as I rolled onto their property. They invited me into their house, and we chatted about their travels, life in Leakey (BTW it's pronounced Lake-y. I was quickly corrected), and the amenities of the guesthouse. Small town hospitality at its finest.
The guesthouse itself is basic. It doesn't include a full kitchen. But I wasn't here for a spa retreat. It was what I needed at a reasonable price.
Evensong is a guesthouse right in Hill Country (guest house on the right)
Here is what was great about this property.
Breakfast. Yes! Ken and Pat will make and deliver breakfast in the AM. It's a hearty country breakfast, and it was delicious.
Stargazing Tower. More on this later, but this is perfect for getting lost in the stars at night
Total price for 2 nights = $288.
Gartner State Park
Gartner is one of the most visited Texas State Parks, usually clocking in at first or second, and for good reason. It's truly a microcosm of Hill Country. Within the park you have camping and all its amenities. The Frio River, one of the most popular rivers, cuts through the park. There is something for everyone here.
I got to the park around 4pm and checked in with the park rangers. He suggested the Mount Baldy Trail. He gave me a smile and said it gets pitch black in the park at 6:30. More on this later but heed my advice:
I will indeed get pitch black. You're in remote country. My cell did not get reception. Plan to finish your hike before dark, and bring a light source.
The Mt. Baldy trail is only .5 miles one way, but it is a steep climb most of the way over rocks. You will sweat. It took me 45 minutes to reach the top.
It is well worth the trek.
Day Pass Cost: $8
You know you're at the top when you see Old Glory...
... and of course when you see this sign.
Look at these views.
Alright, dinnertime in Leakey, TX, population 425. As you can imagine, eating options are limited. There are a lot of bar and grill type places in town.
I hit on the Leakey Inn. It was Friday, and they had live music. What better way to continue my Hill Country experience than listen to some country music.
Camo, pleated jeans, two-steppin', cowboy hats, and belt buckles sums up this place. And, I'm not talking about a honky-tonk in downtown Austin, where the hipsters play dress up. This is the real deal.
Ladies, and gentlemen, Preston Coly!
I headed back home, and as I walked to my guesthouse, the sheer magnitude of the night sky hit me. Hill Country is remote. There is little light pollution, and skies are clear. The amount of stars you can see is truly amazing. The skies are so clear that you can see the Milky Way. I cannot wait to bring my kids here and see their faces.
Day 2 - Lost Maples
After yet another perfect country breakfast, I headed to Lost Maples State Natural Area. It's a 30 minute drive through the hills, complete with hairpin turns and outstanding views.
Lost Maples is another popular destination for Texas nature lovers. It offers a unique natural phenomena that we in Texas just don't get - Fall foliage. Texas loves it's mild winters, but the tradeoff is we don't get the bursting fall colors that is a near religious experience for Northeasterners.
Lost Maples is a unique habitat where Bigtooth Maples thrive and blast the color in the Fall. It's no wonder peak season is in Fall. The park even has a foliage report.
At the advice of the Ranger, I hiked the East Trail + East-West Trail. The combined distance is just over 4 miles with a nice mix of flat and incline.
Day Pass Coat: $6
You'll run across this stopping point. This is Monkey Rock. Now you see it.
And the views.... you can flip a coin on which park has the better views, but for me, Lost Maples get the slight edge.
I stopped off Texas Cannon Brewing Co. on the way home. If you're looking for a WIFI fix, craft beer, and not your standard pub grub, this is the stop. Beers are brewed in nearby Blanco, TX. The Blonde Ale and Texas cheesesteak hit the spot after a day of hiking.
The Road Less Travelled
In a perfect world, here are a few other things I would have checked off my Hill Country bucket list.
Wineries, Breweries, Meaderies, heck yeah. Hill Country is home to more than 100 wineries. By some stats, it's the second most visited wine region in the US. There are countless wine tour experiences that will bus you from winery to winery, or you can just explore on your own.
Fredericksburg, TX. This town has kept its German heritage intact, and we all know that means beer, pretzels, and schnitzel. The town has a surprisingly large WWII museum dedicated to the Pacific Theatre, and it's a must for history buffs.
Float the Frio. Texas gets blazing hot in the summer, and we are blessed to have so many creeks, rivers, and swimming holes to cool off in. The Frio River is one of the most popular in this area. Float, swim, fish, or just sit in the cool water. There are countless tubing outfits that will rent you a tube and pick you up when your float is done.
Luckenback, TX. If you like Outlaw Country (think Willie, Waylon, and Merle), this is something of a mecca. It's not even a town, so much as it's a stop. There's a gift shop and a honky-tonk that still attracts live music.
If you have no idea what I'm talking about, here we go. In 1977 Waylon Jennings, who was pals with Willie Nelson, released "Luckenbach, Texas (Back to the Basics of Love)," which quickly rose to #1 on the US Hot Country Billboards Chart. Ironically enough, Waylon never visited the town, but the song still captures the spirit of Texas and Outlaw Country.
Enjoy
Road Trip Music
Yes, I listed to Waylon 500x on the car ride, but I also caught up on my podcasts. My favorite one is My First Millions. It's hosted by two entrepreneurs that have done quite well for themselves. What I like about this pod, is they give real world advice on how to start a business. They have guests who are successful in all areas of business, not just Bay-area tech bros. My big takeaway - anyone can start a business.
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